Day 3 Turning back south to reach Cantwell, brings us to the western terminus of the beautiful Denali Highway. A 135 mile gravel road across wide valleys, alpine tundra and breathtaking scenery, the Denali "Highway" is open only in the summer months and is the only road through this remote area. Crossing glacial river and lake country, wildlife viewing opportunities abound in this large stretch of wilderness inhabited year-round only by the occasional trapper and wilderness hermit. We'll make a mandatory stop at the Gracious House, an old homestead on the road and one of the last occupied; most succumbing to the increasing unwillingness of most folks to work so physically hard for so little monetary gain. We'll later cross the Susitna River and follow the winding road over ancient glacial eskers and over the Maclaren Summit (elev. 4082 ft), the second highest point on the Alaska road system, stopping for photos or a short hike as time and weather permit. We then travel through the Tangle Lakes Archeological District, thought to be the principal corridor through which the earliest peoples passed to populate the rest of the Americas after making their way over the Bering land bridge from eastern Asia. The Richardson Highway, following the old Valdez-Eagle trail, leads us southward through Glennallen and Copper Center. We'll stop at the new Visitor's Center of our nation's largest national park, Wrangell-St. Elias, for an introduction to this uncommercialized jewel more than twice the size of Denali. The contrasting lack of crowds and regimentation is more than apparent. Just a few miles away is our lodging in the historic Copper Center Lodge, a roadhouse dating from the earlier days.

Day 4 Just next door is a great little museum for after breakfast. After that, the scenic Edgerton Highway leads to the old railroad town of Chitina at the confluence of the Copper and Chitina rivers. There's also a great little Park history intro in the nearby log cabin of one of the early settlers. From here we will travel the tortuous abandoned railroad grade 60 miles through the mountains back to the tiny town of McCarthy in the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias. At the end of the gravel road we'll grab our overnight bags, leave the van, and cross two forks of the Kennicott River (by footbridge) to reach the near-ghost town of McCarthy on the other side a half mile away, the only means of surface access in the months when the river isn't frozen. Excellent flightseeing tours of the area may also be available from the McCarthy airstrip that give an incomparable overall perspective. After a short hike onto the glacial terminal moraine, and having dinner at the McCarthy Lodge, the night will be spent in the historic "Old Ma Johnson" Hotel.

Day 5 A van trip up the remainder of the road four miles to the abandoned company town of Kennicott, takes us to where we'll breakfast overlooking its namesake glacier. Walking allows an almost unbelievable exploration of an entire town sitting much the way it was when the mine closed in 1938. The Park Service has been busy for the last several years, renovating, shoring and adding interpretive displays to the historic buildings, as well as the incredible 14-story mill building itself. Kennicott is truly a ghost town without equal, due to its remoteness and fortunate lack of vandalism. A couple mile hike to the Root Glacier allows those interested to clamber onto the face of an active glacier. Others might choose the optional tour of the Mill building (surprisingly fascinating). Lunch is overlooking all this incredible scenery before our van shuttle back to McCarthy. Some might even opt for a return by the old Wagon Road, past the old cemetery. Dinner is back at The Golden, with the attached bar a must for lingering with the locals and getting a feel for those that call this home for the summer or a lifetime. Lodging is back across the street at the "Ma Johnson".

Day 6 After breakfast, we again cross the footbridges to the van for the beautiful trip to Valdez across Thompson Pass. Stopping at Tiekel River and the Worthington Glacier, we'll climb toward the pass where it's been known to snow almost a thousand inches in a winter. It's quite breathtaking in summer too. Descending through Keystone Canyon, a dramatic waterfall-filled passage to the ocean, the challenge of the terrain shows why the route took many years to discover and pioneer. In the late afternoon we'll have an opportunity to explore the wonderful museum and stroll the streets. Dinner will be on the town in Valdez with accommodations at a nearby bed and breakast.

Day 7 After breakfast we board the Alaska State ferry for the beautiful ride across Prince William Sound. We should see many local creatures including murres, puffins, and sea otters, with a good chance of humpback and maybe even orcas or killer whales, as we weave amongst the many islands of the Sound before reaching Whittier. Here we will be reunited with our van and drive 2.5 miles through the Whittier Tunnel, the longest highway tunnel and the only one combining both rail and vehicle use in North America, which connects Whittier with the 1964 earthquake-destroyed community of Portage. Just out of the tunnel is the fine Portage Glacier Visitor's Center, and an easy short hike to view the Byron Glacier. From here we will head through the Kenai mountains to the tiny end-of-the-road frontier town of Hope on Cook Inlet. Far older than Anchorage, this first gold rush community in Southcentral Alaska is still a place of log buildings and an atmosphere that can only be experienced. It's the Alaska many have in mind from stories past. Lodging is in the cozy log cabins of Discovery Cabins, on the edge of rushing Bear Creek.

Day 8 Following a hearty breakfast, we'll head down the road to Seward and board the tour boat to head out into the Gulf of Alaska for the spectacular Kenai Fjords National Park, passing through the Chiswell Islands Refuge. Here we will view calving glaciers up very close in our small vessel and cruise the rugged coastline to view a tremendous concentration of wildlife including orcas and humpback whales, sea otters, sea lions, porpoises, eagles, and many different kinds of sea birds. It's one of the best one-day experiences in Alaska. Returning late afternoon we'll head north through the mountain lake community of Moose Pass and back to Hope. If inclined after dinner, we'll have a walk to the historic Seaview Bar down on the waterfront to meet some of the local "wildlife". Or, you might just like to poke around the old settlement and see the magnificent views of the mountains bordering Cook Inlet, before lodging again for the night at Discovery Cabins.

Day 9 After a leisurely breakfast, we might try our luck at gold panning (optional) and visit the Hope Historical Museum before following the road to the small town of Girdwood, home of the world-class Alyeska Ski Resort. Here there is an option to take the tram ride to the summit if the clouds permit for a spectacular view of the surrounding Chugach Range and Cook Inlet, while others might opt for a short hike through the rainforest (yes, rainforest) after having lunch at the locally famous bakery. Depending on the day's activities, we'll return to Anchorage in late afternoon and officially end nine incomparable days on the Last Frontier ---you'll most likely be already planning a return . . .