Day 1     We'll meet in Fairbanks at 8AM sharp to begin our journey (location to be announced). We'll immediately set our compass on North, leaving town on the Elliot Highway towards the old mining settlement of Livengood. Our first stop of the morning is the misleadingly named, Arctic Circle Trading Post, (we're not at the Circle yet!) before turning onto the infamous Dalton Highway or, "Haul Road". Just recently opened to private vehicles, this ribbon of rough gravel stretches all the way to Prudhoe Bay and was built in the early 70's to "haul" the ceaseless stream of goods it takes to build and operate the huge industrial facilities of the North Slope Oilfields. Descending from the White Mountains we arrive at the mighty Yukon River sweeping southwestward, just in time for lunch. The vegetation now begins to directly reflect the latitude, the trees looking more like shrubs in the valleys, and the tops of the rounded hills we cross covered only by arctic tundra a few inches high. Traversing the Kokrine Hills, we'll make our first of six crossings of the Arctic Circle, meriting of course a stop and a bit of background. With the stark Brooks Range rising in the distance, we'll continue a bit farther to overnight at the outpost of Coldfoot, founded in one of the early gold rushes, but prospering since serving the rush for "black gold". It's a typically arctic outpost, where luxury is defined in more basic terms than elsewhere and where "utilitarian" is not a judgment but a statement of the value of an item needed enough to have been transported to such a remote place.

Day 2     The road this morning continues to snake northward, climbing the south face of the imposing Brooks Range with the Gates of the Arctic National Park just to the west. A wonderful exploration of the old mining community of Wiseman with a local gives insight into how similarly those of just a few generations ago met the challenges of these parts. Depending on our progress we'll have a picnic lunch in the vicinity of Atigun Pass, a feared piece of road in the winter with its treacherous grades. Highest point on the road system in Alaska at only 4800 feet, you'll swear that you're three times that high from the decidedly alpine environment well above treeline, starkly beautiful in its severity. From here begins our descent onto what is known as the North Slope (use of the term, "the Slope" leaves no doubt in Alaskan conversation as to where), gradually flattening out toward the Arctic Ocean and riddled with small lakes and "pingos" formed by the impermeable permafrost. It is this vast coastal plain that is the destination of many a species of bird migrating from thousands of miles and a hemisphere away, bearing their young in the brief wealth of food that is the flurry of summer. We'll be overnighting not far from the Arctic Ocean in "downtown" Deadhorse, a sprawl of equipment staging areas surrounding the airstrip that serves the oil production installations spread over many miles.

Day 3     A tour of a portion of the Prudhoe Bay oilfields cannot help but impress, regardless of what one might predict beforehand. The extent of facilities and the measures taken to battle the unyielding climate, when placed in the perspective of location, is nothing short of amazing. It feels as if visiting a colony on another planet, as all aspects of life here have to be shielded from the outside environment. Tubes connect everything from multitudes of huge processing facilities to the crew quarters, featuring every amenity imaginable to keep morale and sanity healthy during the long winter months. You'll surely want to dip your toe in the Arctic Ocean before lunch, followed by our flight from Deadhorse to Barrow, the northernmost "city" in Alaska. It too has the feel of an outpost, though you're visiting it in the most hospitable months when the temperature can "soar" to fifty degrees. It's truly fascinating though, and you'll have the afternoon to explore this home to more than three thousand souls. For dinner we just might opt for Pepe's, the farthest north Mexican restaurant for a bit of irony before lodging for the night in a hotel.

Day 4     A bit of the morning is available for personal explorations before embarking on a sightseeing ground tour of Barrow and the surroundings, visiting a historic naval research site and a traditional Inupiat hunting camp among other attractions. (Note: The tour program in Barrow is provided by Tundra Tours only, a subsidiary of the local native corporation) Lunch by necessity is a bit late, before the rendezvous for the Inupiat Eskimo cultural program of traditional dances, mask making, skin sewing, and Eskimo games. The program also features the blanket toss, though while seemingly just fun, it was (and is still) used for hunting, to gain height and hence a view across the thoroughly flat topography. Local artisans have their wares for sale here also, with time to browse before our flight to Fairbanks. Dinner is on the town with most definitely a goodly amount of daylight left to take a look about the neighborhood. Overnight hotel.

Day 5     Our flight to Eagle is in the late morning, allowing us a peak at Alaskaland, a "refuge" for some of Fairbanks earlier buildings and homes. It is also home to the SS Nenana, a wonderfully restored steam sternwheeler from the era when there where more than a hundred of these vessels plying the navigable rivers of Alaska and the Yukon, together serving as the backbone for the system of transportation of goods and people into the north for more than half a century. After about an hour of flying over roadless mountain wilderness, we'll cross a last ridge to see the mighty Yukon below, with a tiny settlement tucked at the base of an imposing bluff. Eagle has long served as the last supply post for the vast upper Yukon valley, providing the earliest miners and current wilderness dwellers with their link to mail delivery, telephones and the rest of the world. Its frontier nature hasn't changed much, as it is still cut off from the rest of the road system during the eight winter months of the year. We'll bunk for the evening in historic cabins overlooking the Yukon. The famous Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen "wintered" in Eagle and spent many an evening playing cards in the main cabin, after arriving in December of 1905 from mushing by dog team from his ship locked in the ice 1000 miles to the north. It was by telegraph from Eagle that he was able to notify the world of his success in finding the long sought Northwest Passage, after three years with no communication.

Day 6     After a fascinating morning historic tour of old Eagle and Ft. Egbert we'll visit a working dog kennel. Long the only winter means of getting around, dog mushing has come back in force, both for "working" (getting wood, trapping, etc.), recreationally and racing. Eagle is truly a unique and unspoiled gem, giving a glimpse into a past way of life that is remarkably still very much part of the present way of doing things in such a remote location. In the afternoon there's the famed and formidable Eagle Bluff to conquer for those with energy to burn, with freetime and bicycles for everyone else. We used to only spend one day in Eagle, but consistent feedback requesting longer was finally heeded --we're sure that you'll understand why. Dinner is at the Riverside Cafe (the only in town) overlooking the Yukon River. The evening is back at the cabins steeped in history, maybe with a little Jack London reading to cement the mood . . .

Day 7      Right after breakfast we'll load up and head down the road toward Dawson City via the "Top of The World Highway". The road follows magnificent ridgelines with endless views and leaves no question as to the inevitability of its name. After passing through the outpost of Boundary, we'll cross the Canadian border, and then descend into the Yukon River Valley and to the goal of all the Stampeders of the Great Klondike Gold Rush of 1898, Dawson City. Dawson is still a frontier town with plenty of its history evident in the old structures and dirt streets. That evening will be left open to those that would like to explore on their own or get cleaned up before dinner on the town. Lodging will be in a bed and breakfast nestled up against the hillside, after sampling a bit of the nightlife. You may opt for a soak in the hot tub back at the B&B before dinner, which hopefully flat tires have not prevented your guide from joining . . . Dawson's night life carries on, with maybe a visit to Diamond Tooth Gerties in order. The contrast of different Norths will by now be feeling very apparent.

Day 8     There's a bit of time left this morning for a quick last poke about Dawson before our trip back to the airport and the flight to Fairbanks. The flight itself is a highlight crossing the White Mountains and descending into the Golden Heart City. It's often clear in the Interior and the views from above drive home the vastness and uniqueness of the arctic. It's a fittingly pensive end to an exploration of remarkable contrasts, beauty, and cultural interchange. Many points and experiences of the last few days will reside long in your mind, and that we guarantee. You may not decide to move to the arctic, but experiencing it can't help but give a slightly changed perspective on our own lives, at whatever latitude that may be.

Note: This trip is operated concurrently with a "southbound" version, varying from the above itinerary only in the order of the stops and overnights.